Geometric study of monochromatic wave breaking on beaches

Kaiming She, Paul Canning

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review


A Video Image Processing (VIP) technique has been developed for the study of free surface water waves. The technique allows detailed examination of continuous image sequences of progressing waves, providing a complete and precise geometric description of an evolving breaking wave. Wave breaking on sloping beaches has been investigated under monochromatic sea conditions and geometric parameters of a large number of breakers have been obtained. The bed slope was found to influence the breaking wave height and depth relationship. A number of new empirical equations have been derived defining the functional relationship between the non-dimensional breaking height Hb/gT2 and breaking depth db/gT2, between the breaking wave steepness Hb/Lb and relative depth db/Lb, and between the breaking height to depth ration Hb/db and non-dimensional breaking depth db/gT2.
Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)334-342
Number of pages9
JournalJournal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Issue number5
Publication statusPublished - 2007


  • Breaking waves, breaking criteria, imaging techniques, wave measurements


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