Jewellery, Silver and the Applied and Decorative Arts in the Culture of Modernism, 1918-1940

  • Simon Bliss

Student thesis: Doctoral Thesis

Abstract

This thesis contributes to the understanding of the relationship between the applied and decorative arts and the culture of modernism in interwar Europe and America. The complete submission consists of five journal articles and one book published between 2003 and 2019 alongside a critical reflection on the contribution of the applied and decorative arts to the culture of modernism and modernity in the interwar period. There is particular emphasis on the study of jewellery, which has hitherto been marginalized in studies of the modern movement. In redressing this situation, the thesis demonstrates that an interdisciplinary approach to the study of the applied and decorative arts leads to a richer understanding of the relationship between objects and the culture of modernism and modernity by integrating the study of aesthetics, gender, identity, fashion, fiction, representation and display.

The thesis demonstrates how particular examples of silverware and jewellery can be placed at the heart of modernist studies. This constitutes a new way of identifying the contribution of objects, often those that are hiding in plain sight such as jewellery
and accessories, to an understanding of the key role of ornament and personal adornment in the expression of a sense of everyday modernity. The study of personal adornment can lead us to understand modern decorative arts in a new light as having given rise to a sense of intimacy not normally associated with the modern movement in design or the practices and polemics of its major protagonists.
Date of Award2019
Original languageEnglish
Awarding Institution
  • University of Brighton
SupervisorPhilippa Lyon (Supervisor)

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