A life in the archive: the dress, design and identity of the London couturier Norman Hartnell, 1921-1979

Jane Hattrick

Research output: ThesisDoctoral ThesisResearch

Abstract

The London couturier Sir Norman Bishop Hartnell (1901-1979) is famous today for dressing Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother (1900-2002) and Elizabeth II (1926-) from 1937, until his death in 1979. His legacy is understood to lie in the establishment of the fixed British royal style devised for Queen Elizabeth in 1937, still worn by the Queen today. Hartnell was, however, far more than a provider of dress to British royalty. Evidence in the form of bound volumes of international press cuttings extant in a private archive indicates that he commanded great respect as a couture fashion designer between 1923-1953. He was also the first British fashion designer to attempt to develop as an international fashion brand in the immediate post war period. Neither Hartnell’s production of two couture collections per year between 1923-1979 and ready-to-wear from 1963, nor his signature looks or house style, have been examined in-depth to date in terms of his legacy. This thesis unpicks Hartnell’s work, closely analysing his sketched designs, fabric swatches, embroideries, couture and ready-to-wear garments extant in a vast, privately owned and relatively unknown archive.
Original languageEnglish
QualificationDoctor of Philosophy
Awarding Institution
  • University of Brighton
Publication statusPublished - Oct 2011

Fingerprint

Fashion Designer
Signature
Queen Mother
Fashion Brand
Clothing
Post-war Period
House Style
Royalty
Embroideries

Bibliographical note

Copyright © and Moral Rights for this thesis are retained by the author and/or other copyright owners. This thesis is currently the subject of legal proceedings and MUST NOT be consulted or loaned until the legal issue is resolved.

Cite this

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title = "A life in the archive: the dress, design and identity of the London couturier Norman Hartnell, 1921-1979",
abstract = "The London couturier Sir Norman Bishop Hartnell (1901-1979) is famous today for dressing Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother (1900-2002) and Elizabeth II (1926-) from 1937, until his death in 1979. His legacy is understood to lie in the establishment of the fixed British royal style devised for Queen Elizabeth in 1937, still worn by the Queen today. Hartnell was, however, far more than a provider of dress to British royalty. Evidence in the form of bound volumes of international press cuttings extant in a private archive indicates that he commanded great respect as a couture fashion designer between 1923-1953. He was also the first British fashion designer to attempt to develop as an international fashion brand in the immediate post war period. Neither Hartnell’s production of two couture collections per year between 1923-1979 and ready-to-wear from 1963, nor his signature looks or house style, have been examined in-depth to date in terms of his legacy. This thesis unpicks Hartnell’s work, closely analysing his sketched designs, fabric swatches, embroideries, couture and ready-to-wear garments extant in a vast, privately owned and relatively unknown archive.",
author = "Jane Hattrick",
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year = "2011",
month = "10",
language = "English",
school = "University of Brighton",

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A life in the archive: the dress, design and identity of the London couturier Norman Hartnell, 1921-1979. / Hattrick, Jane.

2011.

Research output: ThesisDoctoral ThesisResearch

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AB - The London couturier Sir Norman Bishop Hartnell (1901-1979) is famous today for dressing Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother (1900-2002) and Elizabeth II (1926-) from 1937, until his death in 1979. His legacy is understood to lie in the establishment of the fixed British royal style devised for Queen Elizabeth in 1937, still worn by the Queen today. Hartnell was, however, far more than a provider of dress to British royalty. Evidence in the form of bound volumes of international press cuttings extant in a private archive indicates that he commanded great respect as a couture fashion designer between 1923-1953. He was also the first British fashion designer to attempt to develop as an international fashion brand in the immediate post war period. Neither Hartnell’s production of two couture collections per year between 1923-1979 and ready-to-wear from 1963, nor his signature looks or house style, have been examined in-depth to date in terms of his legacy. This thesis unpicks Hartnell’s work, closely analysing his sketched designs, fabric swatches, embroideries, couture and ready-to-wear garments extant in a vast, privately owned and relatively unknown archive.

M3 - Doctoral Thesis

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